Monday, December 12, 2011

Day 21: Not much happened today... but that's good!

86:39.910S 82:20.341W

Elevation: 1892 metres, up only 56 from yesterday.

Firstly, I have today received your blog comments from Dominique... Gee, it's just fantastic reading all your support, views, questions, etc.... I'm overwhelmed, and you have no idea how motivating they all are for me. THANK YOU, but also what I see is that we have a great joint adventure on the go... A special team, it's wonderful! Glad you guys are enjoying it, I'm really loving having you along, it's raising the whole experience to an unprecedented level! I'll try and answer your questions in the postings, as appropriate.

Well it 'would have' been a new record today, but I ended up stopping 1/2 hour early, as foot was starting to pain big time, and I thought best to stop, before damage. Anyway, a great 30.1 km done for the day.

Today was a REAL 'no event' day The weather was amazing, no wind all day, blue sky, and relatively warm, but the terrain was monotonously boring, unlike yesterday. I guess in all this vastness, I can expect a few days like this. They are very mentally challenging though....! Better than fog, blizzard, etc, so I am DEFINITELY not complaining!

The main event was that I had to have a pooh along the ski! Very unusual, maybe I'm eating too much! Anyway it sounds liike a pretty non-event, but it isn't: First the build up to the decision, as I don't really want to have to stop, but it gets clearer and clearer that I won't last out until camp at end of day. So once the decision is made, a suitable sastrugi must be found...One that has 'access' and a 'cavity' that can be covered in afterwards by collapsing the sastrugi mound, as my shovel is not readily accessible... Can't leave such an unsightly 'foreign object' in pristine Antarctica. It just doesn't seem rright!

Found it, now the hardwork starts: park the sled, remove and drop my poles, unclip and take off backpack, remove skis, remove outer mitts, so one sort of has fngers again, store mitts, remove hands-free compass from around neck... Oh, it's entangled with the GPS neck chord... Hmm, swearing!


Next it's off with windsuit top, so I can access trouser braces, hmmm, it's quite cold, time to move fast, hope nobody is watching....! Then drop trousers, facing away from the light wind, but right over the chosen sastrugi cavity! Now the easy part: having the pooh! Perfect accuracy, all that remains is to break over the sastrugi so it falls over the now 'spoiled' cavity, and everything looks natural and born here again. Then it's putting all the stuff back on, and some 15 minutes later I'm back skiing! (My pants do have a real access velcro fastened flap, but this isn't good for me.) So, I'll try not have too do that again... Planning the body hey!

On a not too disimilar vein: Many of you will know this, but it is one of the things about cold weather outdoor activities that drives me nuts, sometimes I could almost cry I get so 'useless': As it gets colder one has to put more layers on, layers of trousers, layers of tops, and layers of gloves / mitts. Well each layer makes things more complex, and you more 'useless' trying to help yourself, and you also start feeling like clumsy Michelin man! I get so frustrated not being able to do a simple 'bare finger' task, as my mitts get in the way, or I have no fingers to undo something... Sounds simple, but when you have all this gear on, it's because it's REALLY cold, and that's when you need things done quickly so you aren't standing still, getting cold... And so too much fumbling around and a cold spiral begins! Not fun, specially for my impatience!

It is a BEAUTIFUL evening out here 'tonight', totally stilll, wind and sound, the sun is streaming onto my tent so it's warm inside, and solar panel charge rate is at max, I have unlimited suply of the purest water around, this is free living!

Interestingly, I decided to not bring any artificial 'boredom distractors' along, eg iPOD, MP3, etc. I love music, and reading books, but on all my adventures I have a golden rule that says I'm JUST going to deal with the environment 'one on one', as naked as possible, so I can listen to 'Nature', experience it, and take it all in... I can listen to my iPOD anywhere, anyday, but I can't listen to Antarctica often. The so called 'boredom' is part of the whole experience that I signed up for, why try annd selectively screen it out. I feel very strongly about this, and have huge debates with some who wants to listen to books while they ski or bicycle, or whatever.... Each too their own, but I will not go there, and find that what happens is my senses get more sensitive and deliver an even deeper experience.

So continueing the 'Not Wasting Life' thread from yesterday: (it will take a few days to get through this. That's if you haven't got disillusioned along the way!)

In our lives we have what I call our 'signiificant activities', those 3-5 things where we spend most of our time in a year. So look back on your last year and try and come up with those 3-5. These aren't the functional things, like eat, sleep, hygiene, etc. For most 'normal' life people, they maybe things like, work, nurture a relationship(s), participate in extramural activity, enertainment, etc... You must get the list down to no more than 3-5, capturing where you spend your time.

Now where we spend significant time we obviously do it for a reason, either we just love doing it, or we do it for a desired outcome, or both reasons.

So for each of the 3-5 think through why you do the activity? Then...

Ask yourself, firstly: Does your soul 'feel good' everyday (or most days) you do the activity? We all know when our soul feels good, I'm not expanding more on that! But are you happy, passionate, excited regularly by the activity?

If your answer is "YES", you are not wasting your life in that activity, but unless you have a "Yes" answer for the next question you may not be achieving the most worthwhile personal life value out of that activity.

The second question is:

Do you HIGHLY value the potential outcome / product / result of continuing the activity? Will this outcome give you Personal Height? Remember all these activities have some interim, ongoing or end 'result'... Including nurturing relationships etc.

If you answer "Yes" as well to this question, then you DEFINITELY aren't wasting your life in this area, and are actually on the purpose Holy Grail path - ie you love what you do, and the OUTCOME of doing it is highly valued, and will give you Personal Height.

'No' answers for both questions for an activity clearly point to a serious 'Wasting Life' situation. You need to make big change and soon!

A "No" for question 1, but a "Yes" for question 2, puts you in a high risk of wasting your life situation - i.e. you don't like what you do 'each day', but you want the end point outcome from the day's activity. This is often unsustainable, and happiness / satisfaction is too linked to the end goal, so if the end goal isn't achieved, 'you' would have wasted your life in this area... Let's take the activity of 'Work': I meet many who hate their jobs (ie a 'No' for question 1), yet need the monthly, annual, etc, income it provides, or are waiting for stock options to expire, etc (a 'yes' for question 2). These people are on a fine line between wasting their lives or not.

This two question test is equally applicable to a mother raising kids as it is to a businessman or an adventurer like me... I have tested the concept across these vastly different people with different 3-5 life actiivities, and the 'wasting life' principle applied across all...

Not sure if this all makes sense.... I'll add a last piece tomorrow, once I've thought about what I have written here on the big walk tomorrow!

Gee, I never thought I'd get into all this while out here, but I guess it's the freedom of thought and meditation time that facilitates it... One of you insightfully picked up that we don't do enough thinking / meditating, well this adventure and my way of life in general offers me a huge amount! In fact one of my 3-5 life activities is ' Thinking', by my own lifestyle design... Now isn't that cool or bloody weird?

Ok, cheers again.

PS: It was a year ago, my 1st ex wife, Trish, died of cancer, and my thoughts are with many of my followers who were close to her. I have other friends fighting with cancer and dealing with their own more extreme solo South Pole challenge...To them I wish you all the strength and courage to win the battle.

Day 20: Exhilarating skiing, Antartica tests my spirit...

86:23.777S 82:35.361W

Elevation: 1 836 metres... Approaching the big 2000m! Today starting out was the 1st day I felt a bit of thinish air!

Hey, what an exciting day... Well, relative to my tough, mentally-challenging, 'normal' routine...

Firstly, I achieved my best daily average to date, 3.3 km/h for 9 hours, and yes that makes it a 30 km day! It wasn't all easy, but there was fun. I was so happy with that, you can't believe how good it felt taking off my boots, and climbing into my little tent, ready to devour a huge meal... Heaven on ice! What is always a bit scary when my boots come off is how my feet throb big time!

The day started with pretty average sastrugi, but almost windless for a change. The ice was pretty good, and I did good mileage for the first two hours, and then I hit the 'Serengeti of Antarctica', you'll see why I call it that further below. This plain that opened out in front of me was TOTALLY sastrugi free, and looked almost like a snow groomed, ski park... Well, was this fun, just what I have been waiting for for a while now. Suddenly 'we' were REALLY skiing, gliding along at amazing speed, feeling like magic motion, and the rhythm just flowed. The incessant tug, tug, tug from 'my friend' the sled was no longer there as the continuous glide meant the pull power was constant, making for a pleasant ride. It's like a boat on the water that suddenly starts gong fast enough that it 'lifts itself' out of the water and gets onto a much faster, low resistance plane. I was feeling so good, all my cross country skiing training at Snowfarm in New Zealand was now paying off... There was just the quiet sound of the ski glides, it was also fun and exhilarating, so much so that I even missed the stop time for a break... And that NEVER happens!

I was just then thinking about you guys and what I'd write about this in the blog, and next thing 'my friend' gave me a huge tug back that saw my shoulders go backwards, feet and skis in the air and me flat on my bum on the ground. I haven't had one of these for days, and this time, instead of getting angry with myself, I burst out laughing... I 'realised' I had run away with myself in the blog thinking, and 'my friend' needed to remind me that it wasn't all Howard good skiing, it was also 'her' slimmed down weight and performance glide rails! There I was, going to take all the credit! I agreed, and apologised, and we never had another problem again! This continued for 3 hours, the kilometres flew by, and my average speed hit 3.7 km/h at its peak. The scenery was breathtaking in its smooth starkness, but as I looked ahead, I knew it couldn't last....

Different sloping terrain has a slightly different ice white shade, and before me was this slightly more grey. A steep hill...

Well at the base of the hill was a sastrugi obstacle course that rapidly changed 'our' rhythm and then we were soon right into the realities of the hill that virtually on its own gave today's elevation gain. What a contrast. Antarctica was trying to break my spirit... It was straight back into noisy, slow 'plodding'. I've done quite a bit of that over the past few days, but the contrast to the 'Serengeti' was spirit breaking! With the plodding comes a motion like the gangling man, with two walking sticks, limbering from side to side tugging the sled each time, with a counter yank to the back and shoulders. The 'walking sticks' make a desperate grunt and squeak on the ice as they bite into the ice providing an anchor from sliding back, and stability, with some propulsion over the ice boulder terrain. The skis now make a loud, irritating clatter as I am forced to walk step by step, with unlikely efficient skis as shoes. The final humiliation comes as I glance to my left and have to watch my ridiculous looking shadow. It confirms I look like a drunken tramp, stumbling ahead, complete with all my belongs in a backpack and mattress strapped to its back! At the break, the GPS makes for depressing reading, as at 2.5 km/h it confirms Antarctica is trying to break my soul!

I finally make it to the top of the hill, and with relief I stop to view from where I have cometh: Well the view back was breathtaking, from the bottom of the hill the Antarctic serengiti, where I had had so much fun, stretched out to the far horizon as a lighter shade of shimmering ice white, without a blemish, save for three largish charcoal coloured 'lakes' that were formed by shadows for clouds in the sky.

With the hill behind me the last two hours of the day were not easy terrain but run on the motivation that 30km day was in reach if I focused!

Another good weather day, a little cross wind for a change and 'fairly cold' temperature.

I was hoping to dip below the 400km to-go mark, but at 403 that will have to wait till tomorrow.

Right, so back to the Purpose of Life!

Just put my down jacket on as it's getting a bit cold in the tent... I'm aleady in my sleeping bag, sitting up typing on the little PDA that is connected to the solar panel on my tent roof... Just to bring you right here with me. Now I carry on with my North Pole insight:

Firstly the purpose is to be a NETT GIVER in the world - ie in the broad scope of things over one's whole life one needs to have given more than taken. This is a 'gut feel' thing, but being on the dole, living off a community, not paying its taxes, cheating others, depending on others, or using them, without giving back, or helping others are all nett taking activities. I'm sure you can work out where you fit in. Anyway that's a BASIC for life purpose....

This may seem like a cop-out now, but...

I believe, trying to solve the question of "What is the purpose of life" is wasted effort as like a few other macro life issues, this one is one of our life mysteries and in not having a specific answer one is kept wondering and it's this unsolved concept that keeps us searching, exploring, learning and above all alive. If the answer was known to everyone, life would be boring... So...

On the Arctic that memorable day I concluded that rather than trying to find the answer to the question, we should rather just make sure: We don't WASTE our lives!

Waste is a very negative and harsh word, but it's meant to be, because to quote the old saying: "Life is short", so anytime we are wasting it it's quite a serious personal 'life cime'.

I sense those who aren't wasting their lives never have the need to answer the "What is the Purpose of Life?" question... They are living 'Their Purpose', and feel content.

So, this all begs the question: When are we wasting our lives, in terms of this 'Purpose of Life' concept?

Well that's where the Arctic thinking took me further, to how does one work out whether one is wasting one's life? But that's for tomorrow! There is a sound basis for testing; it's not all woolly stuff, so stay tuned!

I don't have to say it but I will: Please feel free to comment, either negative or positive, all adds value...

Cheers for today

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Day 19: Another Amundsen one... That's nice!

86:07.645S 82:32.191W

Elevation: 1725 metres.


Yeah, crossed the 86th south parallel, three more then the big 90! Every day a new milestone for me: The furtherest south on the planet I have ever been! It's quite special as I imagine the globe and see myself 'upside down' walking to its southern-most point.

The other thing about crossing a line of latitude, I get to open one of Ruth's 'latitude cards' she made for me.... Small things, but they mean a lot out here.

To reward myself for achieving the milestone, I delved into my spare food stocks, and found two pieces of Josee's delicious lunch fruitcake: one for desert tonight, and one for breakfast in the morning. It should have been an extra whisky celebration, but stock is 'very tight'! (Not from excessive helpings, but rather, being heavy, it was always going to be a scarce resource!

Talking about scarce resources, my daily food ration is not quite enough... I eat every crumb, and am always scrounging around for 'hidden' spare. It's amazing how hungry I get, and my daily rations are very generous (vs some other expeditions).

Well, the GPS says: 29 kilometres reeled out today, in nine hours 'marching'. It was an 'Amundsen day', perfect according to plan, and perfect weather to complement. A light headwind in the beginning, dropped by lunch, and then almost 'hot' conditions. Blue sky and sun the whole day, no clothing layer changes, and no frozen hand problems. So much 'in the zone' time, and not much to report!

My foot was much better, but still not 100%.

After downloading all that philosophical stuff yesterday, today, was a 'private, mindless' on-the-ice, day!

I'll give you another day or two re the 'Purpose of Life' insight....

This morning was the 1st morning I slept through the alarm. Mainly due to a late Blog night... Haha, I do enjoy writing to you guys, but I'm taking an early night tonight. Give you a chance to hone those comments to yesterday's blog!

Cheers

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Day 18: Half way and a good one



85:52.805S 82:25.801W


Elevation: 1616 metres, biggest single day climb today....

You probably picked up from yesterday's blog that I was struggling a bit.... I woke today a bit worried whether things would go further down or spiral upward back to the positive days prior to 'Nunatak day'. It was mainly my right foot issue that was affecting me, but also I find reaching halfway comes with mixed emotions... It's like Wednesday of the working / school week: You are halfway through, but is that a long way you have come or long way still to go?
Well, with a total route distance of 914 km, I now have 461 to go, so almost spot-on halfway. That feels pretty good, and it also means Christmas day at the South Pole is a very real possibility, but 'Mother Nature' will no doubt decide!

Back to the start of today.....

I'm not a pain killer person, never take them, but today I packed 4 in my wind pants pocket, JUST IN CASE. I put an extra sock on my right foot (now 5 socks, including vapour barrier layer!). For those that haven't dragged a sled, it's not just like normal walking: one's back and shoulders are being yanked back, so your toes have to constantly fight back to keep the front of your boot from lifting upwards. When one really pushes the pace or has a very heavy sled, the toes get quite stressed, and almost need like a grab rail in your boot to help them claw back. This is the problem I have, where my toes and ball of my foot are now traumatised.... Anyway enough detail...

The extra sock helped a lot, I had a great day, and forgot about thee painkillers. Not that it's all hunky dory, it will take a while, but a least now I can manage the situation by wiggling my toes, yesterday I could do zip...

The day started with a moderate head wind, and in a big sastrugi obstacle park. I felt good, and patiently made detours around all the big ones... Not good terrain for getting into the zone, but I somehow managed a good average speed. Two hours later I was in exactly opposite terrain, not a sastrugi in sight, not even the occasional one, but just smooth VAST open desert... With the cloud shadow giving it a strange brown tinge, it really looked like warm desert sands, This was the start of the big hill today, but also perfect for getting in the zone, and so I did... The kilometres flew by, and my mind lapsed into a huge philosophical journey! Gee, I missed you on the other side of the debates... (I'll come back to the content later below.)

The now, infamous nunataks are STILL with me, but believe you me, I haven't been seduced again! Two days later they are stlll clearly visible, but other than them, it's just vaste ice wilderness. Today, as I stopped a few times to take it all in, it really hit me how vast and awesome it really is... strange shadows, magnificent skies, deceiving virtual hills and valleys, and nobody around, no sounds, other than the wind when it blows. I take my camera out, but almost each time I realise you can't capture on camera or video what I am experiencing and seeing... Photos will be scorned as showing nothing and that would be tragic, because there is SO MUCH in the scale of things and the experience. I use the 'Mother Nature' thing quite a bit, but today I thought , I'm SO small, and instantaneous in her vast timeless wilderness that 'she' is probably indifferent to my presence.

I managed 28, largely, painfree kilometres, in 9 hours of marching. To try and minimise further damage to my foot, I've decided that provided I'm over 25 km for the day, I'll stop at 9 hours.

You may wonder why I never mention the actual temperatures out here? Well, I'd been warned about Antarctica: At this time of the year it's not the still air temperature that is really cold, probably only -10 to -15 C. It's when the devilish wind blows, the windchill is biting. It's hard out here to estimate the temperature with windchill, but at the headwind peaks it definitely feels like the minus 30s. The worst is that one gets caught out by the warmish still temperature, almost becoming casual and complacent. Two of my fingers have big white frost nip blisters from just that, and most of my fingers are sensitive to touch from minor cold damage... I need to be more careful!

As I went through my planning tonight, it seems it's going to be touch and go as to whether I get to the Pole on or before Christmas day? I'll be pushing to try and do it, but largely weather wiill determine it. I plan to dump (burn off!) quite a bit of fuel soon, I have far too much, and can save 3-4 kgs.

So, my philosophical excursion today....

Well, I've been living out here for 18 days now, I'm halfway, and I asked myself: "So what are you craving for, what are you missing or needing?" I honestly couldn't find one item, thing, activity, etc. I then thought, that's a bit strange, because this life is SO different to breakfast at Empire café, socialising with friends, hours on the laptop, reading the latest news, etc, etc.

I definitely don't miss shopping, going to gym, paying bills, doing laundry and kitchen dishes, spermarkets, traffic, garbage duty, etc, etc. I'm eating the same basic food each day, wearing the same clothes each day, not shaving nor brushing my hair, not showering, I have no idea what's going on in the world, I haven't seen or spoken to anyone yet there is NOTHING I feel I need or want?? Not even a hot bath! Why in that 'other world', do 'we' need so much variety, external stimulation, so much socialising, news, gadgets, material pleasures, etc,etc? Strange hey, but why is this I asked?

The answer appeared to be in: I'm doing what I REALLY enjoy (holisticly), in a very spiritual aand healthy environment, ALL my BASIC needs are well satisfied, and above all I have huge meaningful, and all consumng PURPOSE. A purpose that is linked to me gaining 'personal height', a concept my friend Imi introduced to me back on our Yukon trip. As he said the words, I knew "That's what it's all about!" A sense of inner spiritual development that is free of ratification or approval, or motivated by others. It may involve others, but doesn't have to, and once gained, nobody can ever take that personal height away from you... A good concept.

Out here I have no need for the so called luxuries, boredom distractors, pampering, etc, and my life is SO simple, and free of clutter that I can get within myself and live and feel me!

So if some of this is true, then maybe it's all about having that meaningful and consuming PURPOSE? That then leads to the big question: So, what is the PURPOSE OF LIFE?

This took me back to day 35 in my full-on North Pole expedition, where in the same mind space as today, I had a Damascus experience, where I discovered my response to the question...! I''ll leave you with these thoughts and share with you further in the coming days...

Since 2004 I have been trying to live what I call 'Simply Adventure', a way of life which is Simple, as outlined above bit. But one also centred 'Simply' around adventure, because in adventure Ii find In can find myself and my soul, while still having strong meaningful purpose.

In sharing this with you I'm not trying to say I know the answers, and have it all sorted, I know many of you are much further down your own tracks... All I'm trying to do is share my exploring of an alternate approach.... And maybe it triggers a few thoughts for your journey...!

Lastly, this Blog and your participation, whether active or passive, provides a very important social / human connection for me, one that enables me to not have a craving need to 'get out of here', and be with friends / others....so thank you, it's a very special part of the 'not alone' part of 'Solo but not Alone'

Please feel free to post up your comments, disagreements, views, beliefs...It's all serious fun!

And you just thought this was a South Pole expedition, hey!

Off to bed, feeling very content... Bit of a wind outside, but nice and warm inside my little tent!

Friday, December 9, 2011

Day 17: Back at work, and a day of 'everything'....

85:37.235S 82:18.002W

Elevation: 1470 metres

Under 500km to go: 487, to be exact!

After the variety and excitement of yesterday, I had sort of prepared myself for getting back to the harsh realities of pounding my way direct to the Pole! The rigours of the 2hr, 1.5hr, 1.5hr, 1.5hr, 1.5hr, 1hr, 1hr (last hour optional!) the much-looked-forward-to but bitterly cold 10-minute breaks spent huddled behind my sled, and then the 'getting started again' process, putting skis, and backpack back on, and starting the warm-up process. It's a full-on routine that varies depending only on the weather, terrrain, and what layers of clothing I have on.

It may seem mindless, but it requires focus, concentration and a good sense of understanding of one's body and how it deals with the cold.

When all goes well, and everything is in tune, I lapse into this form of trance, where my focus moves automatically between the compass, a distant sastrugi 'beacon', and a point 1-2 metres on the ice infront of me. These three sources of information are scanned subconsciously, processed and micro adjustments made to course, weight bias and foot movement so I effortlesly cross the uneven terrain, but in a line as straight as an arrow, on the desired compass course, and as fast as possible....! I'm on autopilot, and at one with the environment, my mind is sort of void, but flipping through non conceptual things, often bringing up thoughts about you guys... but all nice and peaceful... In this space, the kilometres fly by, time is irrelevant, at the break when I look back the sled tracks are straight as an arrow disappearing into the rear horizzon, and the GPS confirms that the course and speed were 'perfect'!

My brother-in-law, Bob, a respected sports psychologist, who makes quite a few comments on the blog, would say, "I'm in the zone". This is the place I desire to be in, for the 10 marching hours of the day, but it's not always easy...

So much out here contributes to being able to get in this zone. Being too hot or too cold makes it impossible, lots of sastrugi obstacles, calorie stores, equipment / clothing issues / irritations, and maybe most importantly my frame of mind, are the main doors / barriers to entering into 'the zone'.

Well today was a day with lots of different weather, from clear skies, a bitterly cold headwind, still, flat light greyness, to a valley hole that was windless, and felt as hot as Death Valley! This all requires lots of clothing layer changes, which makes it hard to be relaxed and enter the zone. I was pretty restless, and tryiing to delay layer changes in the hope I wouldn't need it often took me close to being too cold and 'worried'... At one point I was walking with my wind pant leggings rolled up, with 'skinny' black underwear-only legs sticking out to keep cool. Too hot is almost as bad as too cold. At another time I had three layers of gloves, full windsuit with my face wrapped in ruff, and just being warm enough. Given all this change and the difficulty of getting into the zone, I was pleased with the day's distance.

I am still concerned about my right foot: about 7-8 hours into the day, I get excruitiating pain, and am busy working through some options... This pain certainly does make entering the zone easy! Anyway, nobody said it would be easy skiing to the Pole!

I'm reckoning on another 20 days out here, which basically means I musn't think about that, and just get on with the now, and enjoying being out here, like I have been. Yesterday's excursion was good confirmation to me that I'm fully entrenched with life in this Antarctic environment, so that's good!

Finally, its great to have a few school classes along: BJHS, ESL class are doing their usual amazing stuff, and a big welcome to Rancho Bernardo students (Chaparral Elementary, BHMS, RBHS and Poway High). I wonder how many of you have experienced cold, snow and ice? Remember school can be a huge personal adventure, you just need to set your 'South Pole' goals for yourself for school and then grab the oportunities school provides to reach your school 'South Pole'. It's not your teacher's adventure, it's yours, just like this one is mine, for me!


Lastly, I hope you guys also take the opportunity to learn about Antarctica. It's such an important place to our earth and we humans in so many respects. Explore, learn about it, and then you can help protect it for the future...

That's all today... Hopefully I'll be back to 'normal' tomorrow!

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Day 16: Freedom in Antarctica...'Simply Adventure' is alive and well...

85:21.743S 82:21.671W

Hey, ALL your comments are JUST amazing.... Thanks, and I can tell you it inspires me to share more in these postings.... I wish I could reply to each, but......!! Just know you are ABSOLUTELY here with me in my thoughts and mind in the middle of Antarctica. Solo but DEFINITELY not Alone!

If you see my course today on Google Earth, on 'The Diary', you may start wondering whether those compasses are playing games again...! My course today took a 'strange' veer almost direct west, not one for one trying to make it to the South Pole ASAP!

Well my wandering, adventurous, exploring side just took control away from the competitive racer! Absolute Freedom reigned:

I told you about my lovely 'campsite' (yeah, space 10a!) last night 'near' the best nunataks I've seen so far. Each time I've passed a nunatak, I've been curious, and almost tempted to detour to go and 'touch' one. Although simple in concept, they do fascinate me, and I wonder if there are crevasses around each peak, as the ice flows around the fixed moutain, on its way to the sea. Also, I have never been to a continent and not 'put my foot' on the ground! I've only been on the ice way above the 'ground'! So intrigue has been building!

This morning I woke to a perfect still, warm morning, and as I had my almost, pleasant today, daily pre breakfast loo experience, I gazed in awe at the nunataks, and thought: "You are good on 'schedule' for the Pole, you guys are all telling me to "Rest" and it's the perfect day to go and explore the nunataks." This is the strange mix I have within me, and my ,Simpy Adventure' life philosophy is designed to accommodate the fast, go-for-it stuff, but also the, hey it's not so serious, enjoy the now of exploring too... Freedom of choice... I like to think it maximises that, withoutt 'losing one's way! So....

Over breakfast I worked at my plan: I estimated it would take me 'about an hour' to get there, maybe two, a total off-course, but spiritually wonderful, deviation to route to the Pole. So, off I went, so happy I didn't have to sell the 'crazy' idea to anyone else, or explain why I stupidly, wanted to 'touch' them... I just made the decision based on what I FELT inside me I just HAD to do....! Solo... one of the real benefits, or maybe not... read more!

Initially, I was confused as I thought through how I'd pushed for every kilometre towards the Pole these last few days, and now I was 'wasting' them.Then I thought: "No, it's the TIME that those hard days have earned for me are now giving me the FREEDOM to explore as I want! This all felt good, and before long I was 'locked' on the nunataks, and how lucky I was to be going to 'touch them'!

As I skied along I felt so motivated, and alive, the power of Simply Adventure was pumping through my veins again. At one point I was just overcome by emotions, tears welled up, like a deep spiritual satisfaction. Well...

The further I skied, the more I committed to my goal and its dream I became, but at the same time the 'big mountain peaks' weren't getting closer at the rate I'd been used to with the little sastrugi beacons each day.... Hmm, these nunataks are further than I thought. Ok no problem, I REALLY want the experience, so relax, ski whatever it takes, and maybe just write off the day to 'fun and pleasure'! I'd even conjured up the dream of pitching my tent for 'lunch' right next to the cutest one, and stay there overnight... I'd already chosen it! Well...

I skied for 6.5 hours, 18.8 kilometres, and they hardly got closer! I have NEVER experienced anything like this total inability to judge distance... In fact at sea, which is also a vast 'nothingness', I pride myself on my ability to judge long distances. But this was new territory, and something had affected my gut feel!

Clearly they did get much closer, and became increasingly spectacular as they did, but my commitment to a worthy goal needed to be 'audited'. I'd skied all this 6.5 hours without ONE break... Excitement, and passion fueling me through all fatigue/mental barriers on a normal 'boring' day. Funny hey! My hands were so 'frozen' in clenching the poles that when I finally stopped on 'the auditors' instruction I could hardly undo my backpack clips, and release my ski bindings. Such was the power of my nunatak dream! I understand many may see this as madness, not understand the fascination, and yes, logically it doesn't make sense, but this is ME, and its about a strange and powerful fire within. Many will relate in your own passion areas to this same 'madness'....

So the meeting with the 'spoil sport' auditor didn't go well: I'd reached the point where although this detour hadn't actually added kilometres to the distance I still have to the Pole, going any further would start doing that, ie taking me backwards from yesterday. The views of the mountain range were spectacular, two groups of nunataks, spread over quite a few kilometres (?!). The first being iconic, easily recognisable rocky, but snow peppered, tops of jagged, mountain peaks. The other was more like a totally white ice encrusted table, seemingly standing on the surrounding ice, and almost part of it. Inside me the dream fire was still burning strong, but when the auditor asked me how far away they still were, I scarily, honestly could not answer! I estimated not more than 1/2 an hour ski away, but then I lost confidence and thought it maybe still another two hours, I REALLY don't know... Based on that, I decided to I had to 'park' the dream and set up tent, with a view to maybe exploring just on my own (no sled and gear) later... So, here I am with a really spectacular 'closeup' view of the best nunataks to date, and its 16h30, and I'm about to decide whether I set out on my own or not....

It's now 20h30, and I'm back from my ski to 'touch the nunataks'! I decided this was a once-off lifetime opportunity, and I had to give it all I've got to realise at least some of ths morning's dream. Well (again!)...

I did 4km and to my utter shock and amazement, I probably did about half the distance to the closest nunatak! This is astounding, there is something wrong! I did think that for two weeks now the highest thing I've seen is my tent! I've been focusing on small distant shimmeriing sastrugi, so maybe I just could no longer reference these significant height peak tops. Another contributor could be the very pure, clean atmosphere.... I'm almost embarrassed sharing this faux pax wit you!

Anyway, at the end of the 4km, it did feel real closeup and I could see one significant glacier squeezed between the two largest nunataks, which was special. In terms of achieving my original excursion goal, I have failed, but the day's experiences, including the freedom emotions and spiritual peace, plus the close-up views were together ALL worth it. As a bonus I also got to have a special 8km cross country ski, without 'my friend' the sled, in the world's biggest cross country ski park! Don't know where you pay, and why there was nobody else here! Gee, it was light and fast without 'my friend'!

In this account of my day's seemingly unachieved mission I have found many life lessons, and above all, an adventure into the unknown has risk, and deciding when one is a coward or when it's right to change direction and walk away from a heart-felt pursuit is one of the most diffficult decisions I find in life! The other thing is how we are naturally optimistic, and that gives us hope, dreams, and helps us off our butts, when well thought through 'auditor' rationality will probably keep us locked in our comfort zones!

Oh well, strange posting this one, butt I hope you get something out of it, because hey, this was one WHOLE day of my life!

I've just had my last course of my 7500 calorie (SP) day's food intake, and am off to bed, because:

Back to competitive production tomorrow...

Cheers

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Day 15: Two great distance days with no problems

85:19.669S 80:19.977W

Elevation: 1351 metres

Only 522km to go! Sled is getting lighter every day... I must be down 20 kg since the start... I'll be flying soon!

A gruelling, but productive two days behind me.... The human being likes routine and I had just settled down into my daily sleep, eat ski, routine, and then yesterday's bad light visibility gave me no option but to change things. It all came so sudden, one moment I was in clear blue skies, then within minutes the fog had moved in and I had to deal with this dull grey atmosphere that blends seamlessly with the ice. You can't make out bumps and humps, and it all feels very eerie. It's debilitating trying to ski in the rough sastrugi terrain I was in, as you stumble and fall almost each step. I'd been going so well, it was 3.5 into the day's marching and I'd already mentally banked the day's record... That's whaat happens, hey, when one makes assumptions: 'Mother Nature' turns around to show you who is in charge!

Anyway, it was eventually the sun that pushed me across the line to stop and take a 5-6 hour rest. There was a very dull sun coming through the fog, but enough to provide depth perspective when facing the sun... I was going away from it. Here where I am the sun basically goes around in a full circle, almost the same angle to the horizon the whole 24hr cycle. It's quite bizarre at first, but in preparing for the North Pole, I spent time REALLY understanding why, and if you don't it's quite a worthwhile exercise. It may also take you to the significance of the Arctic and Antarctic circles, they are both defined by 24 hour sun criteria....! Ok, so I got distracted:

Well knowing that even if the fog didn't lift, 5-6 hours later the sun would start being in front of me, so the visibility from my perspective would be 100% better. Better still the fog might have lifted, so it seemed like a theoretical no-brainer. How to get my body clock to accept the plan with minimal resistance was the practical challenge.

Anyway, it all worked out great, other than today feeling like a particularly punishing day, after just 3 hours sleep last night.

Yesterday I also reached the point called Thiel corner. Now clear of the mountains, I could make a 30 degree easterly 'turn' to start heading almost direct south for the South Pole. Just one more crevasse area to be detoured around, but that's 250 km off still.

The area I have been skiing in the past two days appears to be an old crevasse field, with 150-200 metre crevasses covered with hard snow/ice running 90 degrees to the direction of my travel. These provide great flat ski surfaces, and a little bump to ski down, once you are over the hump up to it. Now and again the ice underneath lets out a load groan as it resettles somewhere under where me and my sled have caused some weight stress. It was a bit spooky to start with, but know I understand it, it's not a problem.

The weather today has been amazingly warm (I'd say -10C at the very coldest) , no wind, but a bit of the dreaded fog. Lots of nunataks, and like last night I'm camped right opposite about 5 mountain peaks just sticking through the ice, maybe 1-200 metres above the surface ice... Pretty cool!

It was great to connect back to my usual heart dinner again, I missed my dinner time in my little tent last night, it's really cosy, and starting it off with a whisky cocktail sets the atmosphere for a 4 course dinner that ends with 'muscle milk for dessert... Very important for recovery from the day's work.

My feet are very sore, not sure exactly what the problem is, but tomorrow I'll be plastering my toes up to try and help. Noot whingeing, just giving you the whole picture....!

Looking forward to my 6.5hrs sleep now...

G/night!